Champagne
Perhaps no wine region in the world is as much a conundrum on so many levels as is Champagne. On the one hand, few would argue the point that Champagne is the world’s most ethereal wine, bubbly or otherwise. And yet the word “champagne” has been bastardized to refer to any place’s sparkler, from Cold Duck and Asti (formerly followed by the appendage Spumente) to Korbel and Prosecco. But just as one would no more ask that a “xerox” of a page be made, “champagne” (lower case) is just as outdated as a generic reference for any sparkling wine.
The reason is simple: Champagne is the one wine that can’t be duplicated, much less surpassed in quality, by any of its pretenders. One might argue the merits of Bordeaux versus California cab, or Loire sauvignon blanc over New Zealand’s more exuberant versions, but there is no such credible dispute in the bubbly realm. Champagne’s combination of nuance, body and balance, thanks to its unique and unusual combination of climate and geographic factors, isn’t capable of replication.
Which points to another of the region’s contradictions: How the world’s most elegant (an overused descriptor to be sure, but one that clearly applies to Champagne) beverage, the great social lubricator—no wine or drink sets the right mood for a large or small party—could emerge from such an unlikely place. Champagne, far from being the prototypical wine country destination, is a stark and mostly featureless land. Its climate is marginal at best for winemaking which is why the vast majority of its roughly 300,000,000-bottle annual production is labeled not with a vintage date but with the words “non-vintage.”
Its cold and damp climate makes attaining ripeness for its three most important grapes, chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier (pee-no mune-nay), anything but a given each year. This is also why most Champagnes are typically blends of these three grapes, each making up for something that the other two can’t do (the two primary exceptions to the standard three-grape blend are all-chardonnay wines, labeled blanc de blancs, and non-rosé wines made from one or both of the red-skinned pinots, called blanc de noirs; rosés, incidentally, are often made with all three grapes).
Champagne producers blend vintages as a hedge against the year-to-year vagaries of Mother Nature. While there is much talk of the impact that global warming is having on all wine regions as well as the fact that winemaking techniques are much better able to reduce the likelihood of entire vintages being ruined by frost, rain, wind or excess heat, most Champagne will continue to be of the non-vintage variety, at least in our lifetimes, though there has been an increase in the frequency of vintage-designated wines.
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