So, as promised, the '10 arrived in '11 after a long wait in between vintages (the '07 was the last edition of this wine). The 2010 Viognier is Bill’s first vintage from a new vineyard source in the Russian River Valley. The previous six editions were from Lodi. Interestingly, Bill has long thought that Sonoma County was a bit too cool for this variety. But he found a beautifully situated vineyard and pulled up his Lodi viognier roots, so to speak.

The RRV version is NOTHING like its predecessors. I loved the '07 in spite of the fact that it simply wasn't very viognier-like. I love the 2010 more because it is viognier-like. Viognier, which had its 15 minutes in California about 15 years ago, is typically treated more like chardonnay. In other words, it's permitted to get quite ripe (with a corresponding high level of alcohol from those ripe grapes) and is oaked. In its native appellations in the Northern Rhône (Condrieu and Château Grillet), it's apt to be hit by lots and lots of oak, most of it brand new. Sometimes this is good, sometimes not.

The California versions, for the most part, were Condrieu knockoffs. But the problem was that our warmer growing season meant that those wines skewed toward the less-successful French versions. Bill countered by using only stainless steel in order to retain freshness, something that is crucial because viognier doesn't have the inherent acidity of many other white grapes. He also doesn't permit malolactic fermentation to take place, ensuring that the resulting wine will remain even fresher. (If you're interested in what malolactic fermentation is, do a search on the site.)

All of this means that the 2010 is much more recognizably viognier-like than its predecessors. Fragrant notes of honeydew melon and light citrus are framed by a ripe mouth-feel. It pairs well with exotically sauced fish and chicken dishes.

Alcohol 13.7%

500-case production

100% stainless steel fermentation; no malolactic; sustainably grown

GET IT AT

California Wine Merchants for $20.99/bottle

Brushstroke for $42/bottle

Dovetail for $62/bottle

L'Ecole, the restaurant of the French Culinary Institute for $42/bottle