The Béru family’s 12-acre clos dates to the 13th century. With an ideal exposure of south (two-thirds) and southwest (one-third), the chardonnay vines are raised in what some consider to be premier cru-quality terroir. But France being France, or perhaps more fairly, bureaucrats being bureaucrats regardless of provenance, the family has not successfully pleaded its case for the step up in classification. Maybe it's for the best. For consumers, anyway, because this wine packs premier cru punch at slightly more than entry-level Chablis price. 

The ’06 Clos Béru shows juicy apple and lemon notes buoyed by a briny freshness. Pair it with rich fish and chicken dishes, as well as tangy cheeses.

The 2006 was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. By doing so, Athénaïs is going against the grain (sorry) by not having her family's signature wine dressed up in oak. However, starting with the 2008 vintage, Clos Béru has been doing its aging in barrel. The change appears to be more a function of getting a feel for the vines as they age and their location within the walled monopole. After all, the family has only resumed winemaking under its own name very recently.

The wine spends 12-14 months on its lees. Bâtonnage (gentle stirring of the lees) takes place after the primary and secondary (a/k/a malolactic) fermentations, and thereafter once a month at most but never during the winter. (For more detailed explanation of bâtonnage, lees and malolactic fermentation, please check out the 2007 Chablis entry.)

10 cases imported for New York

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At long last, this and Château de Béru's lovely Clos Béru were the first of my wines from the other side of the pond to be put on offer. And the arrival date was, I think, portentous in the best possible way. June 6, 2010, while not having the same resonance as June 6, 1944, will always mark the day of a French invasion of sorts. (For those left scratching their heads at the date reference, think "Saving Private Ryan.") The ship came into port, unloaded its precious cargo, and I finally exercised the "importer" aspect of my many licenses and permits.

Despite having a very long history with vines, the 2007 Chablis is only the third vintage bearing the family name in many generations. It does, however, show that Athénaïs de Béru has hit her stride as the family winemaker.

Deeply lemony and fresh, the ’07 is the epitome of unoaked Chablis. Pair it with shellfish, ceviches, delicately sauced fish and chicken dishes, as well as cheese.

The 2007 was fermented and aged for nine months on its lees (the important detritus that is the result of the fermentation process) in stainless steel tanks. It's not even packed in wood cases! Bâtonnage (essentially, a gentle stirring in order to mix the juice with the lees) took place at the conclusion of the primary (alcoholic) and malolactic (the process of converting the harsher malic acid into softer lactic acid) fermentations. (Just about all reds go through malo, as it's often called for short, and many, many whites do as well.)

There are two very distinct schools of production in Chablis. One embraces stainless steel tanks, the other embraces oak. Often there is overlap. While time indeed marches on, for me the historically truest style of Chablis is unoaked. Citrus, minerals and chalk are the hallmarks of chardonnay from this place of marginal weather and very complex geology. The more wood, the more the wines tend toward chardonnay's tropical side. Nothing wrong with that; it's a matter of preference, and for my money, I want my Chablis to bite me with its vigorous acidity. Oak tempers that freshness.

15 cases imported for New York

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Chassagne-Montrachet might be considered by many to be the Côte de Beaune's white wine stepchild when its bottles are gathered on a table with Meursaults and Puligny-Montrachets. Those two place names are certainly accorded great respect by chardonnay drinkers the world over. And deservedly so, but Chassagne-Montrachet ain't no slouch. And, on the whole, it's cheaper, too.

Morgeot is undoubtedly Chassagne-Montrachet’s best-known and most highly regarded premier cru vineyard. It is also one that demonstrates the general rule that chardonnay and pinot noir have very different needs. You typically don't see red and white grown side by side in premier cru-rated vineyards. But in Morgeot, they are, though the whites certainly are more esteemed than the reds (and thus, cheaper).

The ‘07 Morgeot is youthful, with lovely lemon, apricot and hazelnut notes. Its long finish is highlighted by food-friendly brown spice and buttery nuances. Pair it with richly sauced fish and white meat dishes, lobster and crab.

Alcohol 13%

60 bottles imported into New York (2,500 bottles produced)

61-year average vine age; organically grown and vinified

12 months in barrel (15% new)

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Located just outside the town of Santenay (and within sight of the Chapelle home), the Saint-Jean vineyard is devoted mostly to pinot noir, but there are a few prized parcels of chardonnay. And the same might be said of the Santenay appellation as a whole, where chardonnay is outnumbered by big multiples by pinot, something that is a bit unusual in the Côte de Beaune, the "half" of the Côte d'Or generally thought of as much more white oriented than red.

Perhaps because Santenay, a commune, by the way, that has improved its standing considerably in the last 10 or so years, is really red country, the chardonnay that comes from here is generally on the full-bodied side.

The 2007 Saint-Jean is floral and perfumed with lusciously ripe citrus and spice notes. Because of its generous mouth-feel, it is a lovely match for rich fish and chicken dishes, particularly if citrus and butter are involved in the preparation.

Alcohol 13%

120 bottles imported into New York (2,900 bottles produced)

16-year average vine age; organically grown and vinified

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Kennedy's for $17/glass; $60/bottle

Made only in extraordinary years, the 2005 is just the third vintage since Denis convinced his father, Yves, in 1996 that being a little different by calling attention to themselves wasn't a bad thing.

Even with more than 70 grams/Liter of residual sugar, the ’05 Réserve drinks more dry than sweet, thanks to its balancing acidity. To put that figure in perspective, their sec, that is, their workhorse dry wine, can have as little as 6 gr/L of residual sugar.

The 2005 Réserve is clean and subtle, showing notes of orange marmalade, citrus and flowers. It suggests little hint of its sweetness until the crème brûlée-like finish. It is a dry white drinker's sweet wine. Pair it with foie gras or fruit-based desserts. Or on its own as an apéritif.

12.5% alcohol

120 bottles imported into New York (4,000 bottles produced)

Mix of stainless steel and barrel fermentation, then five months of aging in tank

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Annisa for $60/bottle; $16/glass

Blue Hill for $75/bottle