The Vris vineyard is situated a stone’s throw from the prestigious Aloxe-Corton commune and within site of Le Corton, one of Burgundy’s most hallowed place names.

Les Vris is a great illustration of what makes Burgundy so inexplicably charming and complex. As we stood in the vineyard during my visit with Jean-François and his family in July 2009, I could have tossed a stone—or baseball—to pinot noir vines in the more famous Aloxe-Corton appellation. Literally. Some of those vineyards are accorded premier cru status, as is a vineyard situated in Ladoix right next to Les Vris.

And just past where my ball would landed is Corton, a place on every pinot-phile's shortlist. And it is rated grand cru. The difference between these vineyards? Not so much the soil, though there are variations. It comes down to sometimes slight differences in exposure and elevation. That's Burgundy.

The 2007 Ladoix is intensely floral with ample berry, rhubarb and orange peel notes, as well as balancing acidity. It pairs well with red meats, and is not too tannic to overwhelm roasted, grilled or braised salmon.

Alcohol 13%

180 bottles imported into New York (3,100 bottles produced)

45-year average vine age; organically grown and vinified

10 months of barrel aging

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Pour for $39/bottle

Dovetail for $68/bottle

Kennedy's for $16/glass; $55/bottle