Chapelle’s Premier Cru Morgeot pinot vines are situated right next to his chardonnay, an unusual juxtaposition in Burgundy, because chardonnay and pinot noir have different needs. As Chapelle told me when I visited with him in July 2009, he considers his portion of Morgeot to be particularly suited to pinot, going so far as to call his white Morgeot "a chardonnay made in pinot noir soil."

Historically, there were always much more pinot noir vines planted in Morgeot than chardonnay. But long before pinot became the rage again thanks to "Sideways," the appellation moved decidedly toward whites. And in fact, it's doubtful that many Burgundy fans younger than the Greatest Gneration would associate Morgeot with anything but chardonnay. Nothing wrong with that bit of historical ignorance because in truth, until the last 10 years or so, I've always been underwhelmed by red Morgeot. It struck me as thin and reedy. Chapelle, while not agreeing, did point out that many vingerons have redoubled their efforts in the vineyard. The payoff is obvious.

The 2007 Morgeot shows ample black fruit and earth notes, and the promise of continued development over the next half-dozen years. Pair it with grilled and roasted meat, and red wine- and mushroom-based sauces.

Alcohol 13%

60 bottles imported into New York (4,250 bottles produced)

45-year average vine age; organically grown and vinified

10 months in barrel (25% new)

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Penn Wine for $45.99/bottle