So, as promised, the '10 arrived in '11 after a long wait in between vintages (the '07 was the last edition of this wine). The 2010 Viognier is Bill’s first vintage from a new vineyard source in the Russian River Valley. The previous six editions were from Lodi. Interestingly, Bill has long thought that Sonoma County was a bit too cool for this variety. But he found a beautifully situated vineyard and pulled up his Lodi viognier roots, so to speak.

The RRV version is NOTHING like its predecessors. I loved the '07 in spite of the fact that it simply wasn't very viognier-like. I love the 2010 more because it is viognier-like. Viognier, which had its 15 minutes in California about 15 years ago, is typically treated more like chardonnay. In other words, it's permitted to get quite ripe (with a corresponding high level of alcohol from those ripe grapes) and is oaked. In its native appellations in the Northern Rhône (Condrieu and Château Grillet), it's apt to be hit by lots and lots of oak, most of it brand new. Sometimes this is good, sometimes not.

The California versions, for the most part, were Condrieu knockoffs. But the problem was that our warmer growing season meant that those wines skewed toward the less-successful French versions. Bill countered by using only stainless steel in order to retain freshness, something that is crucial because viognier doesn't have the inherent acidity of many other white grapes. He also doesn't permit malolactic fermentation to take place, ensuring that the resulting wine will remain even fresher. (If you're interested in what malolactic fermentation is, do a search on the site.)

All of this means that the 2010 is much more recognizably viognier-like than its predecessors. Fragrant notes of honeydew melon and light citrus are framed by a ripe mouth-feel. It pairs well with exotically sauced fish and chicken dishes.

Alcohol 13.7%

500-case production

100% stainless steel fermentation; no malolactic; sustainably grown

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California Wine Merchants for $20.99/bottle

Brushstroke for $42/bottle

Dovetail for $62/bottle

L'Ecole, the restaurant of the French Culinary Institute for $42/bottle

The '09 Deux is the second vintage of this blend I've carried. The 2007 was much more chardonnay heavy at 80%. The current version is 55% chardonnay/45% viognier from the Columbia Valley AVA (the chardonnay is from a vineyard in the Columbia Gorge; the viognier is from a vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills).

The 2009 Deux is a deft balance of citrus (chardonnay) and tropical (viognier) fruit notes. The nose hints more at the chard, while its texture and richness lean toward the viognier, making it a favorable match to a range of foods, from fatty sushi to aromatically sauced fish and white meat dishes.

Alcohol 14%

10 months aging in neutral French oak; 5 months sur lie

232-case production

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Frankly Wines

235 cases produced

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Blue Hill Restaurant (under the Pierre Noire label that is being phased out) for $15/glass; $60/bottle Sold Out!!!

P.D. O'Hurley's @ West End for $13/glass; $33/bottle Sold Out!!!

The 2007 Viognier represents the sixth vintage from the same vineyard in Lodi. Bill strongly believes that viognier needs more warmth in the vineyard than Sonoma County can typically be assured of providing each year, thus he chose to source the fruit far afield from his base in the Alexander Valley.

Sadly, there will not be a 2008 or 2009 vintage. Arbios, perhaps suffering from a bit of viognier fatigue (it's not the most loyal of subjects), is taking a pass on these two years. But, weather permitting, there should be a '10. In '11, that is.

And to keep it in your mind's eye, here's a nice writeup about it: Viognier blog.

When served cool, the 2007 Viognier shows off its grapefruity tanginess; as it warms, the inherent body of viognier steps up with yellow flower and stone fruit accents. It’s an apt match for exotically sauced fish, chicken and white meat dishes.

613 cases produced

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Ehrlich's Wines & Liquors for $21/bottle SOLD OUT!!!

Greene Grape Downtown for $20.75/bottle SOLD OUT!!!

Dovetail for $62/bottle SOLD OUT!!!

Print. for $40/bottle SOLD OUT!!!