Valerie’s Vineyard is a one-acre, single-vineyard, organically farmed Carneros Pinot Noir produced by a five-family-member partnership.
For those familiar with the 2006, the price of the '07 might be confusing. Unlike in the fantasy world of Bordeaux, one where prices always rise, regardless of the quality of the vintage, vagaries of Mother Nature, the economy or whatever, new releases typically don't reflect big price increases from year to year. Instead, there are incremental movements (usually, though not always, upward).
The 2007 Valerie's Vineyard Pinot is an exception to that rule. A peek at the production numbers in large measure explains it. Only 88 cases were made of the '07. There were 132 of the '06. Neither number is very big, obviously, but the difference between the two (33% for those keeping score) is big. Like anything, it costs money to make wine. When the winemaker is working with small batches of the stuff like Michael and Valerie Coats are, the less you make, the less bottles there are to spread costs around. And unless you're making thousands of bottles (minimum) instead of 1,000, there are no economies of scale to cushion the pain.
My "allocation" of the 2007 was 15 cases (it seems funny to use such a serious industry term in the case of Valerie's Vineyard, because outside of me in New York City, there is no other distribution other than on Michael and Valerie's home turf of Napa/Sonoma). I got 20 cases of the '06. And what's worse, there are only going to be 75 cases of the '08!
Is the '07 a "better" wine than the '06? Who knows? Though personally, I like the '07 a bit more than the '06. It all depends on what you like. Regardless, the '07 cost me more than the '06, so it will cost you more as well. Sorry.
The 2007 is intensely perfumed, exhibiting strawberry, raspberry and loamy notes framed by a tangy mouth-feel. It partners well with red meats, and thanks to its lovely balance, salmon as well.
88 cases produced
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First & Vine
Blue Hill
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Chapelle’s Premier Cru Morgeot pinot vines are situated right next to his chardonnay, an unusual juxtaposition in Burgundy, because chardonnay and pinot noir have different needs. As Chapelle told me when I visited with him in July 2009, he considers his portion of Morgeot to be particularly suited to pinot, going so far as to call his white Morgeot "a chardonnay made in pinot noir soil."
Historically, there were always much more pinot noir vines planted in Morgeot than chardonnay. But long before pinot became the rage again thanks to "Sideways," the appellation moved decidedly toward whites. And in fact, it's doubtful that many Burgundy fans younger than the Greatest Gneration would associate Morgeot with anything but chardonnay. Nothing wrong with that bit of historical ignorance because in truth, until the last 10 years or so, I've always been underwhelmed by red Morgeot. It struck me as thin and reedy. Chapelle, while not agreeing, did point out that many vingerons have redoubled their efforts in the vineyard. The payoff is obvious.
The 2007 Morgeot shows ample black fruit and earth notes, and the promise of continued development over the next half-dozen years. Pair it with grilled and roasted meat, and red wine- and mushroom-based sauces.
Alcohol 13%
60 bottles imported into New York (4,250 bottles produced)
45-year average vine age; organically grown and vinified
10 months in barrel (25% new)
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Penn Wine for $45.99/bottle
The Vris vineyard is situated a stone’s throw from the prestigious Aloxe-Corton commune and within site of Le Corton, one of Burgundy’s most hallowed place names.
Les Vris is a great illustration of what makes Burgundy so inexplicably charming and complex. As we stood in the vineyard during my visit with Jean-François and his family in July 2009, I could have tossed a stone—or baseball—to pinot noir vines in the more famous Aloxe-Corton appellation. Literally. Some of those vineyards are accorded premier cru status, as is a vineyard situated in Ladoix right next to Les Vris.
And just past where my ball would landed is Corton, a place on every pinot-phile's shortlist. And it is rated grand cru. The difference between these vineyards? Not so much the soil, though there are variations. It comes down to sometimes slight differences in exposure and elevation. That's Burgundy.
The 2007 Ladoix is intensely floral with ample berry, rhubarb and orange peel notes, as well as balancing acidity. It pairs well with red meats, and is not too tannic to overwhelm roasted, grilled or braised salmon.
Alcohol 13%
180 bottles imported into New York (3,100 bottles produced)
45-year average vine age; organically grown and vinified
10 months of barrel aging
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Pour for $39/bottle
Dovetail for $68/bottle
Kennedy's for $16/glass; $55/bottle
Valerie’s Vineyard is a one-acre, single-vineyard, organically farmed Carneros Pinot Noir produced by a five-family-member partnership.
What I think I like best about Valerie's Vineyard (other than the wine) is the total and complete refusal of Michael and Valerie Coats (the prime movers behind this family project) be interested in anything other than growing the best pinot noir grapes they can. There is attention to the details—after all, they live next to the vineyard, so they are in it virtually every day—but NO attention to the trappings of wine country life. "We don't farm for pretty," as Michael told me when I met them both last summer in Carneros.
The 2006 shows inviting brambly red fruit and cola nut notes balanced by loamy earth and zesty acidity. Its food-friendly structure makes it an ideal partner with braises, roast salmon and grilled meats.
132 cases produced
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Bar Boulud
Blue Hill Restaurant
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P.D. O'Hurley's @ West End